Markers in Time

October 26, 2011 in RVs, Uncategorized

Monoliths on the Nebraska Prairie

Chimney Rock @Wikipedia

Flat, dry plains stretch across the Oregon Trail in an endless, mind-numbing carpet of dirt scrub and sky. Rivers, streaking through in all directions, counter the monotony with episodes of drama and terror. Rattlesnakes hide in the bushes, or sunbathe on the rocks, storing up venom and dread.

From the air-conditioned comfort of the Jeep, with a cooler full of Diet Coke, and a trailer that will give us shelter, ice cream and hot running water, it’s hard to imagine the hardships of traveling this land in a covered wagon.

Out of this desperate land, however, strange and wonderful rock formations rise up on the landscape, markers in time and clear measures of progress on the long Oregon Trail.

Not only were these geographical monoliths fascinating to eastern flatlanders, they provided recreation, diversion, opportunities for exploration, and places to camp and layover a few days.

Register Cliff @ Wikipedia

Register Cliff rises one hundred feet above the North Platte River valley. Following a day’s journey from Fort Laramie, emigrants spent the night at Register Cliff and inscribed their names into the rock face. Source: Wyoming Heritage.

Chimney Rock was one of the most picturesque landmarks along the Oregon Trail. It signaled the end of the prairies as the trail became more steep and rugged heading west towards the Rocky Mountains. Many drawings of it were made by surveyors and artists, and most pioneers mentioned it in their diaries. Travelers reported that it was visible forty miles away. Source: History Globe.

Ayers Bridge @ Wikipedia

Ayers Bridge: Crafted by the hands of Mother Nature, Ayres Natural Bridge, located just south of the Oregon Trail, is one of only three natural bridges in the United States with water beneath. For the Indians who first lived in this country, the natural bridge was a deadly place. A young brave had been struck by lightning and killed while hunting the canyon. Legend of an evil spirit who lived below the bridge resulted. When white settlers realized the Indians’ beliefs they used the bridge as an escape from Indian attacks. Source: Converse County Tourism.

Independence Rock 1870 @ Wikipedia

Independence Rock: Named for a fur trader’s Fourth of July celebration in 1830, this huge rock became one of the most famous of all Oregon Trail landmarks. The giant piece of granite is 1,900 feet long, 700 feet wide, and 128 feet high. Starting the trail in the early spring, emigrants along the Oregon Trail hoped to reach Independence Rock by July 4, Independence Day. If they had not arrived by then, they knew they were behind schedule. Source: History Globe.

Devil's Gate @Wikipeida

Devil’s Gate: A few miles west of Independence Rock, the Sweetwater threads it way through a narrow canyon called Devils Gate. But the wagons never passed through the chasm; they wisely detoured around. In the early 1860s, four women, members of a wagon train, camped at this point, and climbed to the top of the ridge above the gorge. One of them, 18-years-old, ventured too close to the edge, fell and was killed. She was buried in the gorge and her grave board was inscribed with this epitaph (Source: Oregon Trail 101):

Scott's Bluff @ Wikipedia

“Here lies the body of Caroline Todd
Whose soul has lately gone to God;
Ere redemption was too late,
She was redeemed at Devil”s Gate.

Scott’s Bluff: Towering eight hundred feet above the North Platte River, Scotts Bluff has been a natural landmark for many peoples, and it served as the path marker for those on the Oregon, California, Mormon, and Pony Express Trails. Wagon trains used the bluff as a major landmark for navigation. Source: National Park Service.

The Yellow Brick Road

October 17, 2011 in Uncategorized

The small town of Wamego, Kansas (population 4,246) is home to a museum dedicated to the Wizard of Oz and its creator, L. Frank Baum. To me, the most interesting of the 2,000 artifacts included first edition books, vintage film posters, Oz board games and historical tidbits about the actors and directors.

And the shoes. Oh, those most incredible shoes! For the 50th anniversary of the film, artist Jeffery Merrell created a commemorative pair of ruby slippers out of 3,500 Swarovski crystals. Yeah. Me likey.

So of you are ever driving along Highway 99 in Kansas (near Topeka), wondering about your place in the universe, click your heels three times and follow the yellow brick road into your imagination.

When I was young I longed to write a great novel that should win me fame. Now that I am getting old my first book is written to amuse children. … I have learned to regard fame as a will-o-the-wisp which, when caught, is not worth the possession; but to please a child is a sweet and lovely thing that warms one’s heart and brings its own reward.

- L. Frank Baum

 

 

The OZ Museum
511 Lincoln
Wamego, Kansas
1-866-458-TOTO

http://www.ozmuseum.com/

Time Machine Dreams

October 16, 2011 in RVs, Uncategorized

Gothenburg, Nebraska to Glenrock, Wyoming

Wagon ruts on California Hill, Nebraska

Mike can subsist all day on bubble gum, fried pork rinds, candy bars and Diet Coke. I cannot. This causes some friction between us, especially at mealtime, which, depending who you ask, could be any time of the day or night.

What doesn’t cause friction between us is how to negotiate a museum. He goes his way, I go mine, and somehow we always meet up at the end, together. I like it.

Things we saw today that we don’t ordinarily see:

Drive-Through Liquor Store

Trains hauling coal. In fact, we hear and see many more trains here in America’s Breadbasket than we do back home in Bend, Oregon. They seem to go every which way at all hours of the day and night.

Drive-through liquor stores. Bitch’s Bar and Café in Lingle, Wyoming, for example, has a convenient drive-up window for all of your adult beverage needs. You don’t see that in Oregon, ever. But don’t ask them for a to-go cocktail in a cup. That, apparently, is against the law.

Four deer crossing Interstate 25. They seemed to appear out of nowhere. I braced myself for impact and when I opened my eyes, three seconds later, Mike had negotiated our way through them without a scratch on man, beast or machine. Amazing.

Time Machine Dreams: Today, I found myself longing for a time machine. Here’s what I would do:

1. Put Pippin in it and send him back to puppyhood so I could train him to come when I call him. Bad doggy. Scratch that last part. Bad owner.

2. Travel the Oregon Trail in a covered wagon, in the year 1850, popping back to the future whenever I wanted a hot soapy shower and a Cobb salad. Oh, the sights I would see! Top hits of our list today, which included 13 hours on and off the road, include:

California Hill: Mike had to walk to these very distinctive wagon ruts by himself, because the guidebook warned of rattlesnakes, and I was not about to budge form the Jeep. Pip stayed with me, safe and sound. Mike thought we were sissies, which we are. We  then drug the trailer about ten miles on a bumpy dirt road with impressive ruts of its own, before we caught a paved road to Highway 26 and our next destination.

Windlass Hill, Nebraska

Windlass Hill: The steepest incline the emigrants came upon thus far was Windlass Hill, which caused the pioneer travelers fits. I had another fit of my own, about the rattlesnake warning sign. Mike got some fabulous pictures and I’m happy to be proud of him from afar.

Ash Hollow: Just outside this popular wagon train watering hole, we found the gravesite Rachel E. Pattison, a pioneer bride who died at age 18. This reminds me that although the Oregon Territory promised great riches and fresh starts for everyone who ventured there, for many it delivered only tragedy.

Chimney Rock: This wonderful monolith on the land told the pioneers that their journey across the plains was nearly at an end, and that their travels through the mountains was about to begin. Chimney Rock is the landmark most discussed in journals and drawn in art of the Oregon Trail. Perhaps most importantly, it boosted the pioneers’ morale – assuring them that they were indeed making progress, after all the weeks and miles of rolling, endless plains. More than 75% of their journey – and the most treacherous terrain of all – remained to be crossed.

Chimney Rock, Nebraska

Fort Laramie: Steeped in history, culture and war, Fort Laramie can boast one of the most excellent historical sites on the Oregon Trail.  Many buildings from the original fort have been resorted and offer fantastic glimpses into the lives the 19th century inhabitants. The exhibits portray settings in time that seem as real as today’s, whether they be bunkhouses, kitchens, offices or bedrooms. At Fort Laramie, it’s easy to imagine the commanding officer receiving reports in his office of Indian activities; the enlisted men playing cards, swapping stories and smoking cigars in the saloon; and groups of weary overland travelers camping by the Laramie River, grazing their livestock and enjoying the benefits of civilization.

Guernsey Ruts: The last stop of our day, as the sun was setting below the hills, was the magnificent wagon ruts near the town of Guernsey, Wyoming. Captured in the soft sandstone, these swales were carved as deep as five feet by thousands of wagons passing through the prairie to the promised land.

Rocky Mountain High

October 1, 2011 in RVs

Maroon Bells and White River National Forest @Michel Hersen

 

One of the best photographers I’ve had the privilege to work with at Oregon Lakes & Rivers is Michel Hersen – a Portland, Oregon-based shutter bug. Here is an image he sent recently from Colorado, at state whose heights I found myself missing during the long, flat drive through Kansas. Absolutely stunning!

See more of Michel’s images.

Michel’s images in the Oregon Lakes & Rivers photo gallery.

A Sassy Little Cleaning Cloth

October 1, 2011 in RVs, Uncategorized

Skoy, earth-friendly cloth

My new favorite gadget for the RV is a Skoy. A what? Part sponge, part paper towel, this sturdy little baby knocks them both off the shelf. The Skoy cloth is strong, absorbent, reusable, biodegradable and it comes in sassy colors.

Another great feature of the Skoy is that it doesn’t stink. Here’s why: to kill the bacteria that typically collects in your household sponge, just microwave the Skoy, wet, for one minute. Voila! Clean as the newly scrubbed  counter top. I love it.

Read more here about the Skoy, earth-friendly cloth.

Contrasting Views, Part 2

September 29, 2011 in RVs, Uncategorized

Kansas High Plains @Wikipedia

We left the grand peaks of Colorado rising 14,000 feet above us, to drive the flat, wide-open plains of Kansas (where the mean elevation is 2,000 feet above sea level).

I don’t understand Kansas. To someone who was raised in the Pacific Northwest, Kansas seems like a vast and barren wasteland. Where are the trees? The mountains, lakes and streams? Not one measly hill in sight. Add to my misgivings the fact that massive feedlots make the western part of the state smell like crap. Miles and miles of cow crap.

But look! The sun has dropped low in the sky and the light has turned soft and warm. Kansas has become a beautiful, bountiful land, spreading itself far and wide under a never-ending sky.

There is something mutually unsettling and fascinating about a land with no visible boundaries. I’m accustomed to feeling tucked in, enclosed, surrounded. Where could I go – in body, mind and heart – if I had no perceived borders? Where would I go, if my choices, my imagination, my heart, were as vast and limitless as the open spaces of this strange place called Kansas?

Contrasting Views

September 29, 2011 in RVs

Photo: High Plains Public Radio

I’d like to begin by assuring our friends at Big Country RV that Mike knows a superb auto body repair & paint shop back in Bend. And, as my grandmother always used to say, “The important thing is that nobody got hurt.” The teeny tiny little dent in the side of our trailer happened at a driving speed of approximately one-half of one mile per hour, while pulling into a gas station. The bright red paint scraped across the lower panel  of the RV makes the whole thing look a lot worse than it really is. (But don’t say anything about this to Mike. He already feels stupid enough as it is. Understandably so.)

Here is the hard thing about RV-ing: you must learn to act as a team. Since both Mike and I are independent-minded, highly opinionated and stubborn, this can make traveling – ahem – contentious at times. For example, he thinks we should get up and hit the road every morning at seven o-clock. I know for a fact that 7am is for sleeping only. This afternoon, he decided we should press on to Kansas (an estimated three more hours of driving) and I wanted to park our butts at the perfectly fine John Martin Reservoir State Park on the eastern border of Colorado (zero more miles of driving). Sigh. I conceded to the man who thinks bubble gum and Diet Coke are two of the basic food groups.

Black, white. Hot, cold. Potato, pahtato. Mike and I give each other contrast. Happiness for us exists within the shades of gray.

Five hours later, we had seen (and smelled) more of Garden City than we wanted. Feed lots stretch for miles around this city, and I’m guessing the amount of cow poo manufactured each day could cover the entire county one-inch thick. Maybe that’s why they call it Garden City – the unlimited supply of fresh compost.

By 9pm, it was well after dark and we just wanted to find a nice little RV park and settle in for the night. Our GPS led us to a residential street address where it determined we would find RJ’s RV Campground. And don’t even ask about the time we wasted looking for an RV park in at the Finney County Fairgrounds. At this point, Mike thought we should give up and stay in a Walmart parking lot for the night. Not going to happen, said I.

Pressing on towards Dodge City, which would take us another hour east on Highway 50, we stumbled upon RJ’s RV Campground, quite by accident, on the outskirts of Garden City, about ten miles from where our GPS originally led us.

But we’re here and we’re hooked up and settled in, and good old RJ’s has wifi, about which I am fanatical. The fact that this park, and most all of Garden City, smells like cow crap will not dampen my spirits. Consider it contrast.

Wide Open Spaces

September 28, 2011 in RVs, Uncategorized

Photo Credit: Wikipedia

Today we left the grand peaks of Colorado rising 14,000 feet above us, to drive the flat, wide-open plains of Kansas (where the mean elevation is 2,000 feet above sea level).

I don’t understand Kansas. To someone who was raised in the Pacific Northwest, Kansas seems like a vast and barren wasteland. Where are the trees? The mountains, lakes and streams? Not one measly hill in sight. Add to my misgivings the fact that massive feedlots make the western part of the state smell like crap. Miles and miles of cow crap.

But look! The sun has dropped low in the sky and the light has turned soft and warm. Kansas has become a beautiful, bountiful land, spreading itself far and wide under a never-ending sky.

There is something mutually unsettling and fascinating about a land with no visible boundaries. I’m accustomed to feeling tucked in, enclosed, surrounded. Where would I go – in body, mind and heart – if I had no perceived borders? Where would I go, if my choices, my imagination, my heart, were as vast and limitless as the open spaces of this strange place called Kansas?

A Trip to Mars

September 26, 2011 in RVs

The Three Gossips, Arches National Park

Moab, Utah

So strange in its shapes and textures and colors, that arriving in the interior of Arches National Park feels like we’ve been transported to another planet altogether. Mars comes to mind.

“Call ‘em as you see ‘em” was the guiding principal when it came to naming the various rock formations, and such monikers as “The Three Gossips,” “Fiery Furnace,” and “Courthouse Towers” engage the imaginations of over a million visitors each year.

Even in the autumn, when the summer crowds (and the 110-degree temperatures) have dispersed, this proves to be a busy destination, with shutterbugs on every turnout. We found ourselves alone, however, for a intimate picnic in Devils Garden. A thin trail runs through enormous rock walls and eventually gives way to rolling red sand dunes, with rocks worn as fine and soft as grains of salt. As the trail opened up, we could see the remains of flash flooding in the peeling, dark red mud – a telltale warning of drama and danger in this vast and rugged landscape.

Dead Horse Point @Utah.com

As sunset approached we drove 22 miles off Highway 191 to Dead Horse Point. The Colorado River cuts through the canyons, which rise 2,000 above in spectacular striations of earth and time. When the sun goes down, the lights come up on these canyon walls, splashed with brushstrokes of magnificent colors.

Dead Horse makes for a great place to mountain bike, even for sissies like me. The Intrepid Trail System offers three hiking and biking loops ranging from one to nine miles with varying degrees of difficulty, including trails for families and beginners. Riders enjoy fairly level terrain, gentle slopes and spectacular views of the Colorado River and Canyonlands National Park. (Fans of western history might be interested to know that Butch Cassidy and his gang, The Wild Bunch, hid from the law in a section of Canyonlands, called – true to its name – The Maze.

Intrepid Trail System, Dead Horse Point

Pippin was a great sport all day, even though the temperatures reached 91 degrees and dogs aren’t allowed on the trails in Arches. We fed him copious amounts of water and let him run amuck for a few minutes at secluded Devil’s Garden, where bouncing around and photo ops were too temping (each according to his or her own preference).

After a long day of exploring, it’s nice to be back in our “White Hornet” from Big Country RV, which has dutifully and uneventfully followed us well over 1,000 miles so far, and provides us a cozy shelter and welcome respite from the days’ adventures.

Tomorrow we hit the road again. Destination: Mesa Verde and the land of the ancient cliff dwellers.

Expanding Boundaries

September 25, 2011 in RVs, Uncategorized

Arches National Park

Moab

Day 4

Accumulated Miles: 1,049

Eastern Utah: The land spreads out in low, muted rises, as if time has drained out all the color and any hint of plant life. Peaks rise up in worn geometrical shapes: squares, oblongs, rectangles, pyramids and slanting triangles, rubbed soft from the wind and rain.

In the far distance we can see the La Sal Mountains to the east. Dark purple, by contrast, these mountains rise high and grand into the sky, and seem to belong by nature to Colorado instead of Utah. So high, these peaks, that they pass Nature’s tree line and the summits look shaved cleaned, like the crown of a bald man’s head. To my mind, it is as if Utah alone has been singled out, and the elements of time and air that has drained its colors and softened its shapes has stopped near its borders.

Dropping down into the valley towards Moab, the colors deepen into a bright brick red and the rock formations take on the look of standing short ribs – pillars and columns poking out the side of the mountains, worn in the middle and blunt on the ends.

Canyonlands National Park

Base Camp: Riverside Oasis RV Park and Campground. Here, where the Colorado River cuts through southeast Utah, we will stay for two nights, planting ourselves for a short respite from the road. Arches National Park and Canyonlands National Park sit just outside of Moab, Arches to the north and Canyonlands to the southwest. Here we will set out and explore, becoming more married to the land in the next two days than we have been to the Jeep seats – inspired by the landscape to expand and mingle our boundaries.